The folks at O'Toole's Garden Centers believe that Colorado's Choice Water Saver Lawn Food is the best fertilizer for your lawn. This fertilizer was developed in response to the drought in 2002. Previous fertilizers focused on producing lush, green top growth in the lawn. These high nitrogen fertilizers often depleted the soil of micro-organisms and produce shallow rooted plants. They look good as long as there is no stress, like a drought.

Colorado's Choice Water Saver Lawn Food works on the whole plant. It has a full feeding of organic nutrient. It also contains a wetting agent to help water penetrate the hard packed soil allowing plant roots to grow deeper. But, the most beneficial feature, that no other lawn food has, is the Mycorrhizae. These are beneficial micro-organisms that are usually lacking in our soil. These organisms work with the plant roots to help take in water and nutrients. This allows the plants to form bigger, deeper roots and lush green tops. Grass plants with strong root systems will not only thrive on less water but will have fewer disease and weed problems. Anyone who has used this incredible product has seen amazing results.

Even now that the drought conditions have eased up, at least for a while, we still believe Colorado's Choice Water Saver Lawn Food to be the best choice. This fertilizer has everything the lawn needs. If you need a quick spring green up, Colorado's Choice Turf Food will do that. But returning to all chemical fertilizers will eventually deplete the micro-organisms and produce shallow rooted plants. Use the Water Saver Lawn Food at least twice a year to maintain the soil health and a lush healthy drought tolerant lawn.

Powdery mildew is a white or gray powdery fungus that grows on the surface of rose leaves and many other plants. It is easily control with Green Light Rose Defense. Rose Defense contains a Neem oil extract which kills and prevents the powdery mildew fungus. The Neem oil also kills many soft bodied pests like aphids and spider mites. Just spray the Rose Defense on the foliage at the first sign of powdery mildew or before to prevent the fungus.

If your iris have become crowded or did not bloom well this year, August or September is the time to make changes. As the tops turn brown, let the soil dry some so it can be worked. Remove the dead foliage and trim the rest to a few inches. Carefully dig the rhizomes out of the soil and brush the soil off of them. Discard any rhizomes that are soft, have bore holes or otherwise damaged. Break rhizomes into smaller pieces, but leave at least one growing tip on each piece. Add soil amendment like B.O.S.S. and a fertilizer similar to bulb food to the soil and turn or till in. Replant the rhizomes you are keeping about 4 to 6 inches apart with the growing tips pointing out from the group. Plant the rhizomes so they are just barely covered with soil. If you have trouble with insects like iris bore add some insecticide like Bayer Complete to the soil. Water them well after planting, but only a couple times for the rest of the season. Water them a couple times in the fall when you see new growth. If we have a very dry winter, the iris should be watered a couple time through the winter. Begin watering regularly in the spring when you see growth resume. Iris do like to get dry between watering, so do not water too frequently. Use Bayer Complete if necessary to control insects. Enjoy the blooms next spring.

In our area tulip, crocus and daffodil bulbs are planted in September to December. They should be planted before the ground freezes, but after it has cooled down. In most years, October and November are just right. The bulbs need about 12-14 weeks of cold weather in the ground to bloom well.

Many gardener like to plant the bulbs in groups making a bouquet effect. Others scatter the bulbs in the area to be planted, then plant the bulbs where they fall. This gives a natural effect. You could be formal with a straight row along the front or back of a bed, or even a pattern to write your house number. Use your imagination. The only rule is that large bulbs should be at least 5 inches apart and small bulbs at least 2-3 inches apart. The bulbs should be planted about 3 times as deep as the bulbs are wide. See the chart below. If your soil is a heavy clay, plant the bulbs a little shallower.


The bulbs require well drained soil. Add some bulb food and B.O.S.S., and turn or till in a couple inches deeper than the bulbs will go. Place the bulb in a hole at the proper depth, with the pointed end up, and cover. If you are only planting a few bulbs, use a trowel or auger to make a hole a couple inches deeper than the bulbs is to be planted. Place some bulb food in the bottom of the hole and add a couple inches of B.O.S.S. mixed with soil. Place the bulb in the hole, with the pointed end up, and fill with B.O.S.S. mixed with soil.

Water the new planted bulbs well. If the winter weather is warm and dry, water a couple time in the winter. Water a couple times in the spring when you see some new growth and during the bloom time.

Squirrels love tulip bulbs and some crocus. If you have trouble with these critters, place a wire mesh over the planted area for a few weeks after planting.

You can place other plants over the top of bulbs. Select plants that like dryer conditions during the summer months when the bulbs are dormant. If you want to plant things between the bulbs, mark the bulb locations at the time you plant them or when they are blooming.

Feed the bulbs yearly by working a granular fertilizer in to soil surface and water in. Do this in the spring just after blooms. Leave the foliage in place until it turn yellow and dies, then remove it. No need to dig up tulip, daffodil or crocus bulbs next fall. They will bloom for years.

Stop fertilizing your roses about a month or two before the cold weather. Use Rose Defense spray to control aphids or powdery mildew. If you have a type of rose that produces colorful hips, leave the remaining faded blooms on the plants. They will swell and add some color through the winter.

When the weather has turned cold:
Shrub roses need only a little attention at this time. Prune any damaged or diseased canes out. Make sure they are watered well until the ground freezes or is very cold. After the ground is cold, apply some mulch over the soil to maintain even soil moisture through the winter. Water a couple time through the winter if the weather is warm and dry. Most shrub roses are hardy and need no extra winter protection.

The modern roses, like Hybrid tea, need more protection. Prune only the damaged, diseased or excessively long canes. Use a sealer on the pruned ends to prevent the remaining cane from drying. Keep well watered until the ground freezes or is cold. Then mound a loose mulch, that will not matt down, up at least 6" over the graft. A 'Rose Collar' helps hold the mulch in place. Add some mulch on the ground around the rose. Water a couple time through the winter if the weather is warm and dry. Remove the collar and mulch from the graft in the spring after the danger of a hard freeze is past.